Stitching up the left side. I started where the bottom edge began.

This is how I can save you money on your small projects. If I only have to load one backing, I'll only charge you for the square inches instead of the minimum. This works great for table runners, place mats, baby quilts for twins, dolly quilts...you get the idea.

See how the loop is free?

I've stitched the bottom table runner's binding on and..

...cut off the excess for the top table runner.

Second verse, same as the first.

Line up the half inch line on the stitching line and trim. You'll see in the next photo how that looks.

I mark the corners with a sharp chalk.

See the how the pink chalk starts where the stitching stops? See how the batting is NOT even with the raw edges of the binding? This is so you'll have enough to fill the binding when you turn it to the backside to finish.

When you get ready to stitch your miters, drop your stitch length to just above a buttonhole. You can see a hash mark on the left side of the scale where normal stitch length is and how the dark bar is just above the buttonhole length.

Pin on either side of the lines, making sure the folded edges are even.

This is the backside of the binding after being stitched. You'll see in the next photo how I went back and made the white thread meet the red thread.

Trim very closely to the stitch lines. Blunt the point of your stitching.

When you trim the last side, make sure to avoid the backing so that it will fill the mitered corner.

This is where that short stitch length comes into play. Turn the corner over the backing and you'll have perfectly mitered corners on both sides. This is the front...

And this is the back.

Another shot of the extra batting you need to have a full binding.

I use clips instead of pins to hold my binding in place.

I snap them on. If you don't have enough to clip the entire project, just move them to the "end of the line" as you work your way around the quilt.